Mexico via Manly

Mexico Via Manly
Approx. 32 South Steyne, Manly NSW

Mexico via Manly, stepping out from the shadow of Montezuma's?

Hola mis amigos, Miguel here to tell you about one of the latest restaurantes de mexicanos in this here ciudad, "Mexico via Manly" (edit: It's actually been there for quite a while now, but my growing backlog of reviews has gotten the better of me). It seems like every week a new mexican joint opens in Sydney, and considering that a few years ago "Montezuma's" was the closest thing we had to mexican outside of my house, that's entirely a good thing.

The most exciting and successful mexican meals have been stemming from places like Guzman y Gomez & Mad Mex, who both opt for a faster but more authentic experience, but Mexico via Manly reverts to the more common Tex Mex style that we've been accustomed to over the years. Unfortunately, at Mexico via Manly the stick falls well short of the piñata.

Coronas...Beach... so far so good, right?

Generally, I get a little giddy when I find out about a new mexican restaurant in Sydney, it brings hope that we are getting closer and closer to the real deal and the kind of food you get over in North America. Guzman & Mad Mex come close, but they don't quite capture the atmosphere of a mexican cantina or eatery, mainly because they are seen as a fast food alternative ala the "Chipotle" chain in the USA. This is not a bad thing at all I might add, but sometimes you want a little...more. So on the plus side, Mexico via Manly gets a few bonus points for being situated right on top of Manly Beach. There is definitely a sense of relaxation glancing out at the waves whilst sipping on an icy cold Corona or a frosty chocolate milkshake margarita! However, let the illusion stop there, mi amigo.

On the plus side: the view's good.

Gazing across the menu and daily specials, I notice something a little exciting, a little confusing, a little unpredictable... duck tamales? Duck Tamales? Wait a minute, duck...tamales? It's hard enough to find tamales anywhere in Sydney due to the specialised ingredients and expert know-how to create such a thing. This place is daring, they're bold, they're pulling out the big guns. I have got to try one, if not purely out of skepticism.

The order is placed: duck tamales, two burritos (one steak and one roast pork). While we're chatting with an obvious eagerness for the delivery of our tamales, the young waitress scuffles over looking a little bit ginger and opens her mouth.... in super slow motion... causing my vision to go blurry, "noooo moooore tamaaaaaales, ordeerr sooomething eeelllse?" "Que? What! No more? What does this mean!?" It's 6 o'clock in the evening! There is only one other table of two in the entire restaurant, how can you be out? Outrage! I'm thinking to myself at this point, "we're outta here, we're gone, we're off to Montezuma's..." So I turn to the waitress with clear rage in my hazy eyes and say, "err... we'll just have the chips and dip instead, thanks".

The chips and dip, almost like duck tamales, but...not.

Ah, Chips and Dip, the most americanised form of mexican since the nacho. How can you go wrong? Well, store-bought corn chips aside, the salsa was harmless, the sour cream was just a little thin and the guacamole must've been nothing other than an avocado peeled and smashed together between sweaty fingers. I mean, come on guys, there are plenty of places where the food might not be great, but at least there is real heart and effort clearly on display (Tico's RIP). But here, where is the love, man? Isn't that what mexican food is all about?

The Roast Pork Burrito

I won't rant on the burritos as the guilt inside of my head is starting to get the better of me, but to give you a small idea: my plate still had food on it upon leaving, I guess you could say it was half-empty if you wanted to keep in tone with this review.

The Steak Burrito, sans spice.

In short, I hope to be more forgiving in the future, and I would be if the heart and soul of a restaurant was being worn firmly on it's sleeve. If the effort was there to create something new and enjoyable, rather than charge people $12 for purchased chips and a scoop of sour cream, I'd be less condemning of the food. In this case however, if you really want to experience Mexico via Manly, grab a bottle of tequila and hit the beach. Muy bueno!

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